Intonation tips?

[Whoopysnorp]

I tend to run into problems intonating my guitars that have tune-o-matic bridges. On certain strings, I invariably bottom out the saddles and still need longer string length. I pretty much always take out the saddle and flip it around too, just to get that extra 8th of an inch of adjustment. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or are the bridges on my guitars just placed a little bit too close to the neck? I can't really think of anything I'm missing, but I'm sure there's a lot I don't know about setting up guitars.

[dagosto]

I've heard that you are not supposed to adjust the bridge with string tension on it. It can ruin the knife edge or something. Of course I've done it many times already.

[Nubus]

From what I've found there are many variables in play. It may take a 1/4 of a twist on the truss rod to completely change that one string. It could be the environment. Maybe the gague should be different. My setups are continually work in progress. I've had this situation before and walked away, re-setup and the problem was gone. Go figure.

[Nubus]

You may have a little luck by shimming either at the bridge or the nut.

[Whoopysnorp]

Yesterday I experimented with a little truss rod tweak and filing the nut slot down a bit. I think I need more adjustment than I can get by doing these things though. Well, it's okay; it gets close enough. It's just that on my Peavey Odyssey the first few frets on the low E read as dead-on in tune, whereas on my Agile (the guitar in question) they read a bit sharp. The obsessive-compulsive in me is quite bothered by this.

[smopo24]

Originally Posted by Whoopysnorp

Yesterday I experimented with a little truss rod tweak and filing the nut slot down a bit. I think I need more adjustment than I can get by doing these things though. Well, it's okay; it gets close enough. It's just that on my Peavey Odyssey the first few frets on the low E read as dead-on in tune, whereas on my Agile (the guitar in question) they read a bit sharp. The obsessive-compulsive in me is quite bothered by this.

that's ok; i feel the same way you do, but a tape op article that jack endino did put me at ease with this.

[johnS]

Originally Posted by Nubus

From what I've found there are many variables in play. It may take a 1/4 of a twist on the truss rod to completely change that one string. It could be the environment. Maybe the gague should be different. My setups are continually work in progress. I've had this situation before and walked away, re-setup and the problem was gone. Go figure.

Stepping away from the thing for a few hours--or even overnight--is key to maintaining your sanity. It's easy to get too close to the problem, for me anyway, and I end up wanting to smash the *&^(^ thing because it won't get in tune in every position up the neck. That's when I realize I've done all I can for that session, and I put it back on the stand. The problem usually seems much less severe when I pick it up the next day.

[subsonic bob]

Originally Posted by dagosto

I've heard that you are not supposed to adjust the bridge with string tension on it. It can ruin the knife edge or something. Of course I've done it many times already.

You should always detune your string before adjusting the saddle, if for no other reason than the possibility of breaking a string and/or scratching the bridge. You are also putting too much pressure on the tiny adjustment screws, Plus you will get a more accurate reading if you retune your open string immediately before checking the intonation. I think the biggest problem here is the junk-o-matic bridge. They are all pieces of shit in my opinion.

[Nubus]

how about stringing through the bridge with it upside down? I've seen it but never tried it. I guess it gives you more tension, but I can't be sure what it does for your intonation until I try it

[Robin Hood]

What i have encountered quite a lot---> Most of the time when you get just ONE string that gives trouble,

1) replace it..Ive seen "dud" strings that will make you want to break your guitar out of frustration, and in the mean time...its the string

2) If it looks as if the saddle is going "beyond" the bridge, tighten the truss-rod a little and re-tune...you'll notice most ( if not all ) of the saddles will then have to be moved forward a little...

3) tighten/loosen the nut at the truss-rod ( just slightly ) and notice any differences...


You get this quite a lot on "new" guitars as they tend to still be "running in"